This classic Jaguar can be available for the selling price of $59,995.00.
Special Interest Car Loss Prevention
This classic Jaguar can be available for the selling price of $59,995.00.
Contents
I. Introduction
II. Acquiring a Special
Interest Car
III. Fire
IV. Theft
VII. Conclusion
Special Interest Car Loss Prevention
I. Introduction
Special interest cars, whether they are American, foreign, classic, custom,
hot rod, antique, muscle, hi-performance, or of any other special interest type, can
carry a significant value. And if they are museum quality treasures, that worth can
soar dramatically in terms of actual, and intrinsic value, not to mention ownership
esteem. These cars offer a vision of beauty, grace, and engineering exception. And
the sounds of their engines while at idle, or roaring under power, are unique. That is
why the effort is made to perpetuate these exceptional cars.
With time, there are fewer of many of these beautiful machines available, and
the emotion, effort, and investment on the part of the owner to acquire, restore, and
maintain one can be substantial. Likewise, the loss of that investment can be a
significant, and irreplaceable negative event.
Part of this ownership responsibility should include the need to be aware of, and
properly manage the risks that are associated with these beautiful cars. That is how
we can best assure that this unique heritage is properly protected, appreciated, and
continues into the future. Secondly, while the law enforcement authorities may take
an interest in your loss problem, with their other priorities, their response may not
be totally satisfying. Your best option is to keep these problems from occurring in
the first place. The objective of this article is to provide information that may assist
the special interest car owner in the area of improved self-protection.
II. Acquiring a Special Interest Car
1. Evaluation
The evaluation process will offer the first opportunity to avoid loss. Buying
any used car represents a risk. Buying a special interest car, and especially if it is
older, carries substantial, and unique risks. If funds are paid-out for a car that
cannot then pass the motor vehicle inspection process, and be titled, registered,
licensed, insured, or subsequently sold: it may hold no actual value for the new
owner regardless of the amount that was paid for it. If the new owner does not
conduct a proper due diligence effort regarding the purchase, and this prior to
the sale, the very expensive car that he just purchased, could end up being no
more than an expensive paperweight, or lawn ornament.
While it is possible for a rare, or unusual vehicle to maintain it's value as a
museum piece, as a practical matter, the newly purchased car must be able to be
driven on the public roadways. It is also vastly more satisfying to be able to drive
the car, than to leave it sitting permanently on display. Often the defects that
complicate these government requirements can be corrected, but perhaps only at a
considerable additional cost, or the need may in fact be cost-prohibitive. Or in some
cases, the problem may simply not be correctable, parts may be difficult, expensive
or impossible to find, or reproductions may be ill fitting, and of poor quality. It is
best to avoid this kind of problem by following a few recommended
practices: Although they are very beautiful and their
appearances can tantalize: one should never rush into a special interest car,
and especially if one does not know what he is doing. The results can be disastrous.
Begin the process by making contacts, and friends at your region's various
car clubs. Visit people, owners, shows, and special interest garages. Put the word out
that you are on the market.
Shop around very carefully, and educate yourself. Have self-discipline, and
take your time. This may involve travel to several states, to evaluate dozens of cars,
over a period of many months.
Research and ask questions, for if you do not ask the
right ones, you will not get the right answers.
Never assume anything. Independently verify
everything that supports the value of the car.
Given the nature of today's world, evaluate the
current owner to a reasonable degree. Do not purchase a car that turns out to have
a link to criminal activities such as money laundering, drug distribution, organized
crime, or fraud for a number of obvious reasons, the first being the possible
subsequent seizure of the car by the government from the new, and naive owner.
Invest in the assistance of a professional who has
knowledge about the type of car that you are seeking. While you may think that you
know cars, buying a few hours of time from a skilled, and specialized mechanic will
pay significant returns. This should be done prior to the sale, not following it when
you begin to experience problems: think proactively, not reactively. This
professional will know the specific "problem-type" things to look for in terms of
general performance, and specifics of the transmission, drive-train, handling, the
engine, suspension, brakes, electrical system, etcetera. The serious buyer will in fact
invest in two such specialists, and then compare their independent evaluations.
Grant this person the authority to act as your
representative, to ask questions, and closely examine prospective purchases for you.
Require objective, candid, and accurate answers from this expert. Then, listen
carefully, and respect what he tells you.
If it is practical, consider finding and talking with
prior owners of the car.
Given the high costs of repairing these beasts,
examine the car very closely from a mechanical, body, and frame perspective. Drive
it, and then put it up on a lift. Look for excessive plastic work, leaks, exhaust system
problems, accident damage, rust anywhere and everywhere, rotten or modified
frames, nonauthentic parts, altered cooling and radiator systems that can cause
serious engine damage, engines that have been altered by shade-tree mechanics,
etcetera. Always conduct a compression check.
No car that is evaluated will be perfect. Each will
have warts. It will be a matter of give-and-take. However, go into your purchase,
and possible resulting restoration project with your eyes open and in a position of
strength. Depending upon the condition of the prospect, strive to adjust the price of
the purchase accordingly, or pass on the car. Find the best one you can, but also
seek to identify, and contain costs that will be subsequent to the purchase price, as
these can be significant. 2. State Motor Vehicle Inspection Given the strict motor vehicle inspection
standards that exist in some states, there might be logic to purchasing a car only in
the same state where you eventually plan to have it titled, and licensed. For example,
Connecticut and California have very strict emission, and inspection standards. A
car that is currently registered and licensed in those states, is simply more likely to
pass the test for the new owner, than one that is brought from another that has no
emission inspection program.
Seek-out, locate, and inspect the various vehicle,
body, engine, and transmission numbers. Examine the vehicle identification
number, referred to as the VIN, very closely. If the VIN has been tampered with,
this can result in significant problems. The VIN is a sensitive aspect and any
tampering can constitute a serious violation of the law. In a reverse fashion, a set of
original matching numbers can help authenticate the history of the car.
Closely examine and compare all supporting
documentation. Any signs of tampering to the documentation, or the VIN itself
should send you looking elsewhere. If mileage is relative to the value of the car,
examine the mileage records, and the odometer for any signs of meddling.
As an older car, it may have no emission control
equipment, or, it may have had an early emission system. While the law varies from
state to state, generally, if it was so equipped when manufactured, that system must
While you may have an opinion, this is not the time
to challenge, or to do battle with the Department of Motor Vehicle Inspectors. A
better option might be to gain their confidence by showing a true interest in their
mission. Visit with them prior to bringing the car in. Working with them, and not
against them, will carry a higher potential for success. 3. Purchase Do not pay out funds, sign a contract, or utter a
verbal contract to purchase, prior to fulfilling a number of steps to ascertain the
true condition, circumstances, and worth of a car.
If the selling price is significant, and a question exists
regarding a particular aspect of the car, it would be prudent to seek-out an expert,
or attorney who has a practice in this area, or to consult with your state Motor
Vehicle Department, or law enforcement authorities on the matter.
When selling a special interest car, be certain that
you have the actual funds in hand, and in a form that you cannot subsequently lose,
and this before signing over the title, and presenting the car to the new
owner. 4. Insurance
Once purchased, licensed, and safely in the new
owner's custody, the highest loss potentials that then face the car will be found in
the threats of fire, theft, collision, and miscellaneous damage. In unison with, and
often coinciding with the inspection, title, and licensing process, is the need for
insurance. Specialty car insurance companies normally require that the vehicle pass
through the government accountability process prior to their assuming risk for the
car. If the car cannot be insured, it may become a significant uninsured liability for
the new owner. Should you have a question and prefer to not go to an attorney, or
the authorities, then take the matter to your current, or a specialty insurance
representative. A positive opportunity for loss control is found in buying an
adequate level of insurance for the car which provides relief against a variety of loss
possibilities. The displacement of a foreseeable loss condition to someone else, for a
reasonable cost, is a prudent business choice. Assure that the car is adequately
insured against all perils. For insurance companies, nearly all specialty cars are an
acceptable, and low risk venture. The owners of these cars usually fit the profile of
someone who take especially good care of the vehicle. As the expectation of loss is
low, adequate levels of insurance protection can be purchased at a reasonable rate.
Seek-out, and engage a quality insurance company, and preferably one that
specializes in this type of coverage. Also assure that additional, and adequate levels
of coverage will continuously protect the vehicle when it is stored, or is being
worked on at the garage, is in transit by truck hauler, at shows, is being presented
for sale by an agent, etcetera. Never be bashful about asking about insurance
coverage, and require supporting documentation for your files as necessary.
III. Fire
Fire is normally accidental in nature, and as such, it is predictable, and can
be prevented to a high degree. If the fire was an accident, there was no intent. If
there was intent, the act becomes arson. It is important to maintain a reasonable fire
prevention and detection program in proximity of these valuable cars in the event
there is a fire. Following a fire there is likely to be a close investigation of the
circumstances. For a variety of important reasons, to include the payment of
insurance claims, the owner should be able to establish that the car was reasonably
protected against the risk of fire. Check the vehicle's electrical system over carefully.
Always repair or replace damaged, aged, and exposed wiring, and other electrical
components.
Like it on not, many older cars have different
electrical components, and even positive ground systems. Many specialty car fires
originate in the electrical systems. Watch for systems that have been converted
improperly, or are dangerously jury-rigged. Check out the instruments.
Install a master power switch on the car, between the
storage battery and the wiring system. Then keep it switched "Off" when the
vehicle is not to be used for extended periods, or when it is being worked on.
Pay attention to good housekeeping practices
regarding chemicals, fluids, oily rags, exposed fuel, fumes, general trash, etcetera.
Fuel is necessary to support a fire: therefore, eliminate, or closely manage all
combustible materials.
Eliminate, or closely manage all fire ignition sources.
Be very careful of any open flames, smoking activities, faulty building wiring,
heating units, etcetera.
Position ABC-type fire extinguishes around the
garage as these are effective against normal combustible, oil, and electrical fires.
Then assure that they are properly maintained, and the people who can be expected
to be present know how to use them.
Always carry an ABC-type extinguisher in the car.
Preferably it should be kept out-of-sight and not within the engine compartment, as
this is where the threat of fire is the highest.
In higher risk, or high asset environments,
consideration should also be given to the installation of an automatic fire detection,
and suppression system.
IV. Theft
While fire is normally an accidental event, theft is an intentional human act
which requires motivation on the part of the criminal, the means to accomplish, an
opportunity to act, and the assurance of escape, or to remain undetected. To counter
the act of theft, these variables must be controlled, eliminated, or
reversed.
The traditional car thief is motivated by the prospect of a ride home, a
joyride, or perhaps to use the car during the commission of a crime. When the
casual thief needs a car, and the motivation and opportunity is there, he will steal
any car, classic, specialty, or modern. To him, your very valuable car will be no
different from a stock 1985 Chevrolet. He could care less about the investment you
have in your beautiful car. He has no discipline or values, and he may be a
substance abuser, a car jacker, an armed robber, and very potentially, a killer. To
him a car is a car. He will totally destroy the car he steals, likely in resentment. It
will probably be found wrecked, or burned. This person also represents danger. To
assure the safety of you and your family, as well as the integrity of your specialty
car, you simply do not draw his attention by presenting him with the
opportunity he is seeking.
The professional thief is motivated by financial gain. His cars are usually
stolen on order, and may be sold whole, or parted-out. Why, and when this thief
steals, is defined by the economics of the market that he serves, and the degree of
opportunity that you provide him with.
Classic, antique, and foreign cars can be stolen for parts, and although this
is a possible motive, it is not probable. For parts to have a value, there must be a
market. However, the parts of these cars are unique, very identifiable, and there are
too few of anyone kind to support a market for stolen parts, unless the thief also
happens to own one of the same kind. However, the American made specialty cars
most certainly can be stolen with parts, and parting-out, as the objective.
Stolen cars are often a matter of supply, demand, and economics. Classics
are no longer being produced. Some are irreplaceable antiques. The hot rods, and
muscle cars represent the best of America, and they are prime targets. They all can
appreciate in value. Many people want, or would like to own one. As a result, they
can be very much in demand. Those that are luxury sports cars, are reported by the
Highway Loss Data Institute to be two and one-half times as likely to be stolen,
when compared to all other categories of vehicles in the United States.
Like stolen art works, most of these cars could not be sold in the traditional
sense by the average thief on the street. They may have a high value, but that value
is relative, and unique, just as it is with a stolen work of art.
A stolen $ 89,000 1955 XK 140 Jaguar Roadster would be very visible. The
owner would pressure the police, and alert the classic car community. A reward
would be offered. Publicity would be sought. There would be no market for the
parts, and there are only a few specialized shops that trade, and work on such cars.
The thief would be spotted immediately if he attempted to drive, or sell that
beautiful car. Like the art work, it has a value, but only under the right
circumstances.
The true market for many of these specialty cars, like art works, is found in
foreign countries. American port cities represent a high risk environment. However,
any car can be transported in a day or two, to a deep water port from any location
in the United State via an enclosed car hauler truck. In a very quick fashion, this
stolen-on-order 1955 Jaguar would likely be rolled out of the owner's unprotected
garage, loaded into the hauler, and be on its way in a matter of minutes. Upon
arrival, in New Orleans for instance, it would then be placed into a shipping
container which carries the appropriate export papers, loaded as machine parts, and
shipped to a foreign port. With the proper connections, stolen cars can end-up in
South or Central America, the Caribbean, Middle East, Asia, or behind the former
Iron Curtain in Europe. There, and like art works, they are delivered to their new
owner, who pays a premium for the car, and it simply disappears. Larger machine
items, such as earth moving, and construction equipment, have followed this same
path for many years.
First, as a target, the specialty car is visible, and easy to steal. The many
security components that are taken for granted on modern cars did not exist years
ago when today's specialty cars were then state-of-the-art. Important accountability
features such as the vehicle identification number, is easy to alter on older cars.
Many of these cars simply had the VIN stamped into the frame, or attached to a
thin metal strip that can easily be violated. The various vehicle numbers, when
typewriters, and carbon paper were considered high tech, may have been changed.
The paper trail which supports the specialty car, may be in error to begin with.
The casual car thief can usually be deterred by basic security measures.
Deterrence simply means doing certain visible things, which will send the
thief looking elsewhere. This can successfully reposition the liability away from the
vehicle own, to another. The thief is going to steal a car. Your objective is to
convince him to steal someone else's car, and not yours. You can do this by making
your theft prospect more difficult, and take more time, than he is confronted with at
another other car. Thieves, like electricity or water, will normally seek-out the path
of least resistance. The professional car thief can also be deterred, but only on a
system basis where he is confronted by multiple security countermeasures
which assure his discovery, identification, and arrest. Only this will send him
looking elsewhere. Where the casual thief is reckless, the professional will carefully
measure and compare his chances for success, verses failure.
V. Protective Program
Your self-protective objective is to first, lower the degree of opportunity
that is available for the thief to steal the car, and secondly, to increase the odds that
if he does steal your car: he will subsequently, and quickly, be discovered, identified,
arrested, and successfully prosecuted.
1. In Storage
The specialty car will normally find itself in storage the majority of the
time. It will be driven sparingly, and when driven, the nature of the trip is likely to
be a short outing, too perhaps an event of some type. The car will infrequently
spend the night away from its primary place of storage.
Regarding the location where the car is normally stored, develop a "circle of
protection" around the garage, and car itself. A good beginning is found in common
sense, in addition to a variety of security measures. However, security measures are
only effective if they are used on a routine, and coordinated basis. Avoid storing the car in a secluded location. Develop
a mutual watch agreement with your neighbors. Consider keeping a dog. Limit the
growth of vegetation, or the presence of other things that may block open lines of
vision across the property. And install lighting on the general property.
The storage garage should be resistive in terms of the
general construction, the roof, walls, floor, doors, skylights or other openings,
lighting positioned high up and fit with photoelectric switches or timers, windows,
locks, key control, fencing, warning signs, and in areas which warrant the expense,
possibly an alarm and/or camera surveillance system, or random guard patrol.
While the car is stored in the garage, the master
electrical switch should be set to "Off," the car's doors routinely locked, the keys
removed from the area, transmission left in gear, and the handbrake engaged.
Be careful of automatic garage door openers. When
the car is in a long-term storage mode, it is prudent to both disable the automatic
garage door opener, and to physically lock the overhead door with one or more
traditional key locking devices. If the door can be opened, the car can easily be
rolled out and loaded onto a trailer in only a few minutes. Strive to render it
impossible to roll the car out of the garage.
Any trailer that is left stored in the same area should
be properly secured to eliminate the possibility of the thief using it to tow your own
car away.
Pay close attention to the lower panels of the
overhead doors as they can be easily kicked-in. Back them on the inside with steel
strips. Likewise, dead bolts, hinges, and door mechanisms and locks should be
installed with extra long screws which extend into the framework of the building.
Other mechanical vehicle anti-theft devices can be
installed to include steering wheel, column, or ignition locks. 2. Away From the
Garage During travel with your specialty car, avoid
repetitious patterns or habits. Do not be predictable in where you routinely stop for
meals, or lodging. Be careful where you park the car while in travel, or at your place
of employment. While you may be protecting the car while it is home in your
garage, the moment you take it out of that protected shell it will become exposed to
a much higher level of risk. Plan ahead, and share your scheduled with someone.
Be observant for anyone who might be following or
keeping you, or the car, under surveillance. If you suspect that you are being
followed, write down a license number, turn your headlights on, blow your horn,
and quickly proceed to a safe haven such as a police or fire station, or a location
such as a convenience store where numbers of people are present.
Car jackings can be deadly serious, and they do
occur. Your specialty car will draw attention. Pay attention and react quickly if
there is cause for concern. Promptly report any such suspicious situation to the
police.
When driving, always keep the doors locked, and
depending upon the environment: the windows up, or nearly up, or be capable of
rolling them up quickly if necessary.
Never pick up a hitch hiker for any reason.
Traffic tie-ups represent an increased opportunity
for both traffic accidents, and for someone to jump into your car with you. Be very
cautious as while tie-ups are usually legitimate, they can also represent an additional
hazard. If in doubt, reverse your direction and take a different route to avoid the
problem location.
If the car is to be taken overnight, assure that it is
left in a well populated, illuminated, visible, and if possible, a secured location or
facility.
Should you tow your car to a show or meet, always
assure that the trailer is locked to the hitch, that the hitch in turn is locked to the
pulling vehicle, and then, that the vehicle itself is properly secured. Anything less
could cost you your car, trailer, and towing vehicle.
If the car is to be moved via truck transport, lent to
an exhibition, or left for service or repairs, assure that the company, and personnel
that are involved are reputable, and properly insured to guarantee the value of your
specialty car from theft, fire, and damage. 3. Other Precautions Develop a documented portfolio on the car
which contains photographs, or a video tape record, an appraisal document, and all
of the records, receipts, title, etcetera that relate to the vehicle.
Depending upon the owner's relationship with the
commercial garage where the car may periodically be worked on: if the relationship
is proven, then perhaps a contract which stipulates the services to be performed, is
not necessary. However, if the relationship is not proven, it is prudent to develop a
document between the owner and mechanic which lists out work that is to be done,
parts that will be involved, an estimate of costs for all parts and labor, anticipate
time frames, etcetera. Quite simply, such documentation can keep problems from
occurring, and if they do, they can be resolved better if there is a preexisting written
record.
Do not keep this file where the car is stored. Keep it
elsewhere, and protect it in fire-resistant container, or bank safe deposit box.
An open advertisement of affluence can invite a
variety of problems. It is prudent to avoid or limit such practices, and to veil the car
itself: out of sight, out of mind. Begin by limiting the view of the car from outside
the garage itself. Then exercise prudence and good judgement in where, and when
you take the car out in public. While local shows, parades, and photo spreads in the
town newspapers can be fun, they can also attract the wrong kind of attention.
Depending upon the nature of your protective needs,
information on the car, and it's movements should be limited. It would not be a
good idea to respond in depth to a telephoned survey inquiry, from a stranger,
which has the car, you, or your family, as the subject.
Works of art are meant to be shown, and shared, and
so are specialty cars. However, with publicity and exposure comes increased risk. Be
selective in how you use your car by perhaps driving it in an anonymous way, and
showing it only to select groups of associates who can be trusted to hold the same
values regarding specialty cars.
VI. Security Technology
Modern technology can be used to enhance many of these security efforts.
It can be used to secure, or to trace cars and parts following a theft, which makes
them less valuable to the thief. However, to be an effective deterrent, these high-tech
security measures must be visible, and known to the prospective thief. Following a
theft, these security measures must then have a proven record of efficiency in an
investigative, and recovery mode. Windows and other parts of the car can be etched
with identifying information.
Alarm systems can be installed on the storage garage,
or the car itself. When activated, they may sound an audible siren, blow the car's
horn, flash the headlights, turn on building lights, or summon the police. These
systems can be made sensitive to blunt force or vibration, movement, the sound of
breaking glass, any abnormal variance in electrical system voltage, or a shift in the
vehicle's position. To control false alarm problems, systems that automatically shut-
off, reset, and only alarms again if provoked, are recommended. These systems may
also have remote control capability.
To gain deterrent value, any such system should be
made very apparent to the potential thief. Awareness, or warning signs offer this.
Older cars are subject to the traditional, and low-
tech theft method of hot-wiring. For this reason, the entire electrical system, or
select components such as the ignition system, fuel pump, or starter motor, should
be intentionally disabled when the car is left for any period of time. Electrical
components can be deactivated, and reactivated with keys, switches, or remote
electronic devices. These options can often be integrated into the alarm system.
With modern cost-attractive technology, a beacon or
transmitter can be installed in the car. If the car is subsequently stolen, the
transmitter is triggered by remote control. The transmitter then becomes a homing
device which the police can track to the car's location. Other systems may use
satellite positioning systems to locate the vehicle on a wider scale.
A mobile communications device of some type in the
car with you is an excellent idea for a variety of reasons.
VII. Conclusion
For the dedicated restoration person, the driver who just-wants-to-go-fast,
or the investor: the specialty car is a very worthy treasure to have. They represent
quality time in the life of the owner, and to best assure that objective in today's risk
prone world, loss control should become an increased priority in the scheme of
ownership.
Classic 1967 Jaguar, E-Type,
Series I, 2+2
The classic Jaguar E-Type needs no introduction. Wickedly fast, sleek, seductively beautiful in design and engineering: it is widely acknowledged as the standard by which other sports cars are judged. They credit their ancestry to the convergence of Jaguar's successful 1950's D-Type racing programs, and then the wonderful XK120, XK140, and XK150's models. When one wants to refer to the racing heritage of the car, it is an E-Type; or when relating it to the famous XK's, it is an XKE. The terms are interchangeable, and both are proper.
The E-Type evolved through three generations during the course of it's production from 1961 to 1975. Termed the Series I, II, and III, each variation had it's own strengths, and weaknesses. The E-Type is a beast, and keeping one will test your patience. However, the rewards are tremendous to include consistent "thumbs-up" gestures. Like most beautiful things, they require attention, investment, and TLC. E-Types are now considered to be a unique art form, and one sits on permanent display in the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art in New York City.
These distinctive cars represent not only the power to go, but also a unique tube-type frame, independent rear suspension, distinctive transmission, and inboard braking system, all of which provides excellent handling. It can run at 150 MPH, control the curves, and then power out into the straight sections of road with a characteristic, and splendid roar.
This car is a Series I, which was produced between 1961, and 1967. The Series I is acknowledged as being the simplest, purest, and most desirable of the three designs. It is immediately identified by it's glass covered headlights, small front air intake cowling, triple windshield wipers, and slim marker lights, and bumpers. It has a 4.2 liter engine which holds 12 quarts of 50 weight oil, and produces in the range of 265 British, or 300 American brake horsepower. This car is, in comparison to the E-Type Roadsters, and Coupes, an uncommon long wheel based 2+2 model, which as a larger car, made it a Grand Touring model. This particular car was likely imported into Canada, and was located, and painstaking restored after it had sat in a garage for 22-years. It is a rare, beautiful, roadworthy, driver and keeper !!
In 1970, and with the introduction of the National Highway Safety Act, and emission requirements, things changed: and not for E-type improvement. The resulting Series II, and III's have larger motors, air intakes, larger repositioned marker lights, and bumpers. However, they are acknowledged to lack the traditional fluid grace of the Series I cars. None-the-less, to each their own, and they also more than adequately represent the most beautiful sports car ever built.
John W. Kennish, CPP - Security Consultant
now be present, and in working order. Over the years such systems may have been
discarded or modified, and while the car may run better without them, it is not
going to pass the inspection process unless they are now reinstalled. The same may
be true for the remainder of the car to include windows, braking systems, frames,
electrical, etcetera. Substantial changes from the original equipment could present
problems.
Rebuilt 4.2 Liter Engine with 3 SU HD-8 Carburetors
4-Speed Transmission, No Emissions, All Numbers Match
62 East Pond Meadow Road, Westbrook, Connecticut 06498
(860) 399-8545
Kennish.com
E-Mail John Kennish
© 1998 John W. Kennish, CPP